Tamil Nadu with Mr Bala

I remember my first day in Kozhikode, I was 20 years old and yet terrified of being left alone 'cause well I had never stayed a t a place with such lush greenery, I did n't understand the language and in general it was all so different from Delhi, where I had spent the first twenty years of my life.

Six years hence, now whenever I travel to any part of South India I am constantly reminded of my latent preference for that part of the country vis-a-vis the North. There is just something immensely homely about the roads, the palm trees, the humidity, the temples, the sarees and the gajras, the coffee and the food!

This time I was travelling through Tamil Nadu with my boyfriend and his parents and Mr Bala as our trusty companion and driver throughout the journey.

Madurai
This was my first time in Tamil Nadu, if I don't count the several flights via Chennai. Immediately after picking us up, Mr Bala took us to the Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace. Built in the 17th century the current remains only account for about one-fourth of the original palace. The remaining was supposedly taken away by the king's grandson to build his own palace in Trichy. Nonetheless the palace  is still a sight to behold with its massive white pillars supporting the structure, the high ceilings adorned with the most intricate and colorful paintings and mandalas. And yet again I encountered one of my usual travel pet peeves; how hard is it for people to respect any structure of historical , cultural, architectural or artistic significance unless there is some iota of religion attached to it? I mean scribbling on walls and declaring undying love really does n't lead to a happily ever after, but then again sigh!

Intricate paintings on the palace ceiling

Mighty facade of the Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace

Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace

Next up after a quick lunch we headed towards the Meenakshi temple and oh.my.God!!! Out of all the temples I have visited till date (which is a lot given my extra religious mother), this one was by far the most grand and awe-inspiring temple! Apart from the mind boggling number of statues and artifacts inside the temple, it also evokes a heady combination of emotions. The sun was setting and painting the sky in pretty ochre tones, thunder in the background serendipitous-ly in tune with the chants from the temple and a slow but steady drizzle topping it all.

Glorious Meenakshi temple

Rameshwaram
This was my first time traveling so far down south. The Pamban bridge which leads to Rameshwaram is another sight to behold. Flanked by the Indian Ocean on one side and the Bay of Bengal on the other, each competing to be more cerulean than the other, fishing boats dotting the shores, white headed eagles gliding around in slow motion, it was truly a postcard worthy sight.
Before visiting the temple in the evening we went to Dhanushkodi. About 20 km or so from Rameshwaram this is where the mythical Ram Setu or the Adam's bridge starts. The once bustling fishing village is now a ghost town with a population of just about 500 odd fishermen and their families. In December 1946 a super cyclone hit the coast and with it destroyed  the entire town. Dhanushkodi is only accessible via jeeps or mini vans which traverse over bumpy mashes, arid and deserted expanse of land only inhabited by various avian families. It is quite eerie to see the lone skeletal structure of the church which survived the aftermath of the cyclone and the crystal blue waters in the background. It is a strange and humbling experience at the same time.

Near Ram Setu

Ghost town of Dhanushkodi

Remains of the church at Dhanushkodi

 Chettinad Region - Karaikudi
Our final destination was the Chettinad region which is known for its massive mansions built by the Chettiyar merchants, dating between 70-200 years old. The layout of the houses are common, they usually start with a huge open verandah, followed by a series of porches; each usually used for a different purpose, the whole mansion replete with intricacy and yet simplicity.

Inside an old Chettiyar mansion

Just a few short days in Tamil Nadu and every time I board a flight to go back home I am so overwhelmed by the beauty that exists in our country and how much there is to learn about and appreciate!

Gingee: The Hidden Treasure of Tamil Nadu

“Half the fun of travel is the aesthetic of lostness” – Ray Bradbury

Every person, every traveler has that one that one kind of place that they keep going back to..in their journeys through time and physical places and their minds. For some it may always be finding that secluded spot on a beach and counting the waves as they slowly die and reincarnate again and again, and for some it may be spending hours studying and watching people in a bustling market. For me it will always be the ruins. Nothing gives me the sense of satisfaction, of discovery, of peace and calm, of humility as sitting alone in the midst of ruins, imagining how a century ago, that very same spot could have been used to sell fruits in a Sunday market, or by a courtesan enthralling her audience, or by a king making important (or not-so-important) decisions! Just the time travel in my mind gives a sense of awe that nothing can parallel.

So while we were on our weekend getaway to Pondicherry (and getting bored out of our minds by the second day...no offence to Pondy lovers!), we decided to check out Gingee (yeah Lonely Planet had like one paragraph about it in their South India section, but just those few lines were captivating enough).

Gingee lies almost midway between Chennai and Pondicherry and it’s close to a two hours drive from the latter. 

The town is located between three hills and the most famous attraction of this otherwise nondescript town is the Gingee Fort. Gingee Fort (also known an Senji, Jinji, Senchi or Chenji) is one of the few surviving forts in Tamil Nadu and was tipped as the “most impregnable fortress in India” by the Maratha ruler Shivaji and the British were so kind as to call it the Troy of the East.

The Gingee Fort

Within the Gingee Complex

One of the many corridors to take you back in time

The Venkataramana Temple in the background

The site originally built by the Chola dynasty in the 9th century AD, has since then passed through the leadership of the Vijayanagara Empire, the Marathas, Bijapur sultans, the Mughals, French and finally the British. The complex is nestled between three hillocks: Krishnagiri to the north, Rajagiri to the west and Chandrayandurg to the south east. Apart from the fort, the complex houses a 7-story building called the Kalyana Mahal (marriage hall they say), granaries, prison cells, temples and several tanks. If you’re lucky then you’ll have almost the entire complex to yourself to explore and relish in peace, otherwise like us you may have to share it with bus loads of weekend travelers and school kids!

Though the complex in itself is absolutely beautiful, but your mind really begins to get blown when you start the uphill climb to the fort. The steps are more like huge slabs of rocks and climbing those can totally replace the lunges one does in the gym and to top that the climb is at least 45 degrees if not steeper. And if this wasn’t enough there will be monkeys jumping around trying to take your belongings just for fun or kids trying to race each other to the top or to the foot! But still, despite all this, with every few steps when you just look around, without fail one ends up heaving a huge sigh (party due to breathlessness), but mostly because there’s nothing else that you’d do at that very moment but soak in the feeling of (almost) being on top of the world!

View from on the way up

And yes, you'll usually find company

Before the climb I had read the ASI description about the fort being impregnable, but I truly understood the meaning when I got on top and realized that there was a real draw-bridge across a massive crevice which separated the actual fortress on the top from the rest of the structure! And crossing that bridge is not for the faint hearted, or those suffering from vertigo like me! At that height, with the winds howling, you feel like you’ll be blown away like a stray kite with every step that you take!

Ranganatha Temple on the way

What's a fortress without a draw bridge!

But once you finally station yourself on top, and look down at the rest of the world, the complex which would have once been teeming with people, the granaries with produce, the chants of the priest in the temples, the two other hillocks guarding the complex and everything else takes a back seat. In those few moments lie the little joys of life which make the rest of the weeks and months worth going through.

Venkataramana Temple complex

The temple replete with monolithic pillars

Near the complex is the Venkataramana Temple which was built by the Nayakas. This is usually comparatively more secluded than the inner fort, maybe because this edifice is actually quite secluded. The entire temple brims with large monolithic pillars, which adds the Mummy Returns sort of eeriness.

In short, Gingee is a jewel. When in Chennai or Pondicherry, it is a must visit!