Monday 28 August 2017

Tamil Nadu with Mr Bala

I remember my first day in Kozhikode, I was 20 years old and yet terrified of being left alone 'cause well I had never stayed a t a place with such lush greenery, I did n't understand the language and in general it was all so different from Delhi, where I had spent the first twenty years of my life.

Six years hence, now whenever I travel to any part of South India I am constantly reminded of my latent preference for that part of the country vis-a-vis the North. There is just something immensely homely about the roads, the palm trees, the humidity, the temples, the sarees and the gajras, the coffee and the food!

This time I was travelling through Tamil Nadu with my boyfriend and his parents and Mr Bala as our trusty companion and driver throughout the journey.

Madurai
This was my first time in Tamil Nadu, if I don't count the several flights via Chennai. Immediately after picking us up, Mr Bala took us to the Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace. Built in the 17th century the current remains only account for about one-fourth of the original palace. The remaining was supposedly taken away by the king's grandson to build his own palace in Trichy. Nonetheless the palace  is still a sight to behold with its massive white pillars supporting the structure, the high ceilings adorned with the most intricate and colorful paintings and mandalas. And yet again I encountered one of my usual travel pet peeves; how hard is it for people to respect any structure of historical , cultural, architectural or artistic significance unless there is some iota of religion attached to it? I mean scribbling on walls and declaring undying love really does n't lead to a happily ever after, but then again sigh!

Intricate paintings on the palace ceiling

Mighty facade of the Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace

Thirumalai Nayakkar Palace


Next up after a quick lunch we headed towards the Meenakshi temple and oh.my.God!!! Out of all the temples I have visited till date (which is a lot given my extra religious mother), this one was by far the most grand and awe-inspiring temple! Apart from the mind boggling number of statues and artifacts inside the temple, it also evokes a heady combination of emotions. The sun was setting and painting the sky in pretty ochre tones, thunder in the background serendipitous-ly in tune with the chants from the temple and a slow but steady drizzle topping it all.

Glorious Meenakshi temple


Rameshwaram
This was my first time traveling so far down south. The Pamban bridge which leads to Rameshwaram is another sight to behold. Flanked by the Indian Ocean on one side and the Bay of Bengal on the other, each competing to be more cerulean than the other, fishing boats dotting the shores, white headed eagles gliding around in slow motion, it was truly a postcard worthy sight.
Before visiting the temple in the evening we went to Dhanushkodi. About 20 km or so from Rameshwaram this is where the mythical Ram Setu or the Adam's bridge starts. The once bustling fishing village is now a ghost town with a population of just about 500 odd fishermen and their families. In December 1946 a super cyclone hit the coast and with it destroyed  the entire town. Dhanushkodi is only accessible via jeeps or mini vans which traverse over bumpy mashes, arid and deserted expanse of land only inhabited by various avian families. It is quite eerie to see the lone skeletal structure of the church which survived the aftermath of the cyclone and the crystal blue waters in the background. It is a strange and humbling experience at the same time.

Near Ram Setu

Ghost town of Dhanushkodi

Remains of the church at Dhanushkodi


 Chettinad Region - Karaikudi
Our final destination was the Chettinad region which is known for its massive mansions built by the Chettiyar merchants, dating between 70-200 years old. The layout of the houses are common, they usually start with a huge open verandah, followed by a series of porches; each usually used for a different purpose, the whole mansion replete with intricacy and yet simplicity.

Inside an old Chettiyar mansion


Just a few short days in Tamil Nadu and every time I board a flight to go back home I am so overwhelmed by the beauty that exists in our country and how much there is to learn about and appreciate!

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