Thursday 15 October 2015

Trek though heaven with Robin Singh : Kalaw to Inle Lake in 2 days

The only planning we did before leaving for Burma (despite my OCD and excessive excel files syndrome), was pretty much just booking the tickets and the applying for the e-VISA. More than packing the right amount for a 10- day backpacking trip, my concern was more regarding calming my nerves at the lack of “detail”! Anyway, a day before we were to depart I called on the number mentioned on the Golden Lily site to confirm if the rains were too bad for a trek through the hills, and was greeted a very enthusiastic Ms Sheila whose enthusiasm went up a few notches on knowing I was calling from India (!!) and assured me of a fabulous trek!

We landed in Mandalay in the afternoon, and after several hilarious turns of events (not understanding the language or the signs and almost missing our bus) we managed to get on to the right bus to Kalaw, which we reached in the wee hours of next morning. And there in the middle of nowhere, was a turbaned figure of warmth, charm and hospitality, Mr Robin Singh! We were 5 of us who would going on the trek with him in a few hours,  a German, a Swiss, a Korean, a French and myself an Indian and obviously Robin Singh ji took special liking to me! Turns out, his great grandfather fought in Burma under the British empire and since then his family has stayed back and started doing the trek for some 30 years back or so. Almost 57 now, never having visited his motherland, saving every penny to be able to someday, it was incredible to see the kind of joy one can give by just speaking in their tongue! It was incredulous to see how happy the family was to be able to speak in Hindi and talk about achaar (pickle) and parantha (Indian bread)!

And so it began..
After a few hours of sleep, we woke up the next morning, all refreshed and excited to embark on our 2 day trek through the pristine lands of Myanmar. Within a first couple of minutes, it was evident that not only will the trek be a lesson for our physical strengths but also for our geography, ecology and biology skills! After so many years of trekking through the same lands, Mr Robin clearly had developed specialized knowledge regarding every leaf, shrub, wild fruit we saw on the way! And to our luck, the lands of Burma are extremely fertile, so within the first 30 minutes we crossed avocado trees, coffee plantations, cauliflower fields, blooming sunflowers, rice fields! Yes, all of this in the first 30 minutes! Then one of the local families invited the always effable Mr Singh for tea (and hence the invitation very happily got extended to us). Also the family and Mr Singh had never spoken before, but apparently this is how all happy and friendly Burmese are! What should have been a quick 15 minute tea sharing session, turned into a 2 hour story telling session during which not only did we have cups after cups of tea, but all kinds of fried fish, peanuts and vegetables, freshly plucked fruits and locally brewed alcohol! A very heady and unexpected start to a trek!

The extremely hospitable couple, with a Polaroid of all of us together which we gifted them!

Trying so hard to eat, talk and sit in that posture all at the same time!

look at the size of the cabbages!

Mr Robin y'all!

Once we took leave from the extremely hospitable family, we continued on our trek and our educational experience about the flora of the Kalaw region. Next stop was for lunch and it was at a village monastery with the locals working to repair the monastery and the head monk. Sharing our lunch with them, playing chnilone with the young monks, talking to the head monk and him giving us locally made ointments (!?) just made us think and believe how the next few days in Myanmar will probably be one of the most warming and touching experiences we will ever have!

Quick game of chinlone with the young monks!
Next couple of hours were spent in covering in around 15 kilometres around the lush fields, the rolling hills, extremely friendly and photogenic farmers, adorable kids running behind us, tiny houses housing really big cattle, and lots of bamboo making people! Our bunk for the night was one of the village’s headman’s house, which he had very graciously given us to spend the night in. Brilliant food, and too much of it, never ending  kettles of tea through the night, card games with people we had met a few hours ago, some Korean shows with the headman’s daughters, we could not possibly have been more immersed in hospitality than that!

Next day, with the crack of dawn we were treated to some more amazing tea, instant Burmese coffee (yeah, that’s a trend there) and very sweet and delicious French bread! While the first day seemed more about food and expanding our ecological horizons, Mr Robin Singh seemed to be determined to cover lost distance the next day. So it was almost 20km if not more in half the time! So while Robin Singh went hop, skip, jump across the trail, as the rest of us went stop, pant, huff a good 50 metres behind him at any given point! Got to give it to him for that incredible stamina! The trek with all its glory ended with steaming hot bowls of noodle soup of Shew InnThein, from where we took our 1 
hour long boat trip to Inle Lake.

them Burmese babies!
To Mr Robin Singh, his energy, his kindness, his hospitality, to the people we met on the way and to all the amazing noodle soups (!), how could we have asked for a better start to this magnificent country?! Merci!
one of the many groups of absolutely adorable kids!
men making bamboo baskets
usual sights

Saturday 3 October 2015

The Wonder that is Bagan!



A wondrous vista of pagodas and stupas dating back to the 12-13th century, beautiful frescoes (rather remnants) adorning the walls, gilding htis clinking in the gentle breeze, stories of local nats brewing in nooks and crannies. Bagan for 2 days was more than we had imagined.

So Bagan was our stop after Inle Lake. We reached really early in the morning, or rather in the middle of the night and managed to negotiate what we thought was a very cheap taxi ride from the bus stop to our hostel in Nyuang U. Turns out it was so cheap because instead of a ride on 4 wheels, what awaited us was a ride on 4 legs! This was one of the many hilarious moments we had in Myanmar. Anyway, after a good 20 min of tottering we reached out hostel, the Winner Hotel, one of the cheapest shacks in the region, especially well located.

Now, we went right after the monsoons, so it was as humid as being in a sauna the entire time, and no you cannot roam around in a towel checking out the pagodas! Adding to that, neither me nor my boyfriend were very confident in hiring e-bikes to navigate our way through mud lanes so we decide to go the good old-fashioned way, cycling around a 26 square mile area, almost 7 hours for 2 consecutive days, while drowning ourselves in history, an era gone by and bucket loads of sweat!

Some quick nuggets to enjoy Bagan:

1. Not just Bagan, or Myanmar, this holds true for most of South East Asia, visit right before the tourist season begins or at the fag end of the same when prices are still low and you’re not jostling with a landslide of humanity for the one coveted sunset spot!

2.  Stray off the main road, take the mud lanes across the plains that connect most of the pagodas. Mostly you’ll find locals lazing and will also give you useful information about which pagoda terraces are accessible and a lot of it won’t be public knowledge.

3. Read a little about the pagodas (the main ones at least, there are almost 3000 in total!), it will make you appreciate the beauty and history behind it more, especially when it’s not a part of your native culture, after 20 or so all pagodas will end up looking the same!

4. Try and scout for our own sunset point. The famous ones are crowded beyond belief, even in the low season and it is next to impossible to get that Facebook profile picture without someone’s arm jutting into the frame! On a serious note, Bagan has too much art, history, culture spread over a decently large area to force you to congregate on just one terrace!

However, Bagan is the torchbearer of tourist spots in Myanmar and hence you’ll find plenty of hawkers and young kids always smiling and trying to sell something or the other. They even sell their own drawings, nothing more than little colour pencil stick figures!! It is sad to be surrounded by beauty, to be transported to an era long gone by, and then hear from the local elders how kids and youngsters bunk school or don’t take part in the daily farming activities because it means more money to sell a few wares for a couple of dollars.


It is sad to be a part of this craze towards mass tourism, and in that sadness lies hope that all of us who visit the land still so pristine and its people still so uncorrupted (if that is a word!) will spread the word and encourage responsible travel. 
Still functional wooden monastery
its more beauty than any camera can capture!
Ayerawaddy river on the western and northern borders of Bagan
Of gilded pinnacles
Panoramic Bagan
The sun sets, the magic won't
A helpful local and your own terrace!